Skincare: What You Need to Know About Retinols
What we do for our skin on the daily can impact its health.Take it from me, the world of skincare is vast and confusing because ultimately, skincare is a business and a lot of money goes into marketing. When choosing products I like: clean and ethical, results-driven, and research based, and preferably simple. When it comes to results-driven and research based, retinols are a must-have for those looking to live their best wrinkle-free life.
What is Retinol?
Retinol is a type of retinoid, and retinoids are among the most effective substances at slowing the aging process (1). You may think retinols are an exfoliant, however they are classified as an antioxidant. Confusion lies in the difference between over the counter (OTC) and prescription. Here’s the bottom line: OTC retinols work against aging just as their prescription-grade counterparts; they just aren’t as strong. This lesser strength may be preferred because they are more easily tolerated.
Retinoids are a form of vitamin A that work by entering a cell, attaching to the DNA, and changing the code so that the skin thickens, stays intact, water is retained, and collagen is protected (1). The term ‘retinoid’ is an umbrella term that refers to both OTC and prescription retinoids. Prescription retinoids are 20 times more potent than OTC retinols (2) and are available for immediate use by the cells once applied to the skin. Tretinoin is pure retinoic acid and is available by prescription. OTC retinols go through steps to be converted to retinoic acid in the skin before becoming active.
What’s the difference between Retinol, Retin A, and Retinoid?
Retin A and retinol are medications classified as retinoids. Both Retin A and retinol help the skin through cellular turnover and are effective against anti-aging. OTC retinols require conversion in the skin into its active form, retinoic acid, while Retin A requires a prescription and is more potent and effective at softening wrinkles and addressing acne (3).
Benefits of Retinoids:
Reduces signs of aging
Improves skin texture (4)
Evens skin tone
Clears Acne (5)
Boosts Collagen Production
Reverses Effects of Sun Damage
Side Effects
Retinoids can cause dryness, irritation, and peeling; particularly with prescription-grade strength. To avoid these side effects, start slowly and titrate up. I like to start with a low concentration of (tretinoin) 0.025% once a week for a couple of weeks, then twice a week, and so on until you are using nightly. Higher concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are available however I recommend titrating up to this concentration to allow the skin to acclimate. For those wishing for a milder retinol, consider an OTC (my favorite is Jan Marini’s Age Intervention Retinol Plus) which tends to be more tolerable.
Do not use these products with pregnancy and breastfeeding and sunscreen is a must because retinoids make us more sensitive to the sun. Retinoids can take months to work so stick with the routine!
There are several ways to integrate retinols into your routine. Keep in mind that you want to titrate up slowly, apply at night, wear sunscreen, and keep your skin moisturized. Link to schedule a consultation to see if you are a good candidate for retinol.
References
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC6791161/
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2699641/
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/26578346/