As the sun wanes into autumn, the best skin treatments for the time change. We are coming from a summer of sun exposure and accordingly, some of us experience sun-damage symptoms like exacerbation of hyperpigmentation. Just as we turn the compost, it’s the time to restore our skin’s outer layer as a way to address the sun damage from summer. Now is the time for regenerative treatments like microneedling and peels. 

First off, we experience hyperpigmentation from the sun because its exposure leads to an increase in melanin, the pigment responsible for skin color. Melanin production that’s stimulated via ultraviolet radiation (UV) radiation (ie sun exposure) tends to be distributed unevenly throughout the skin (1). Further, UV exposure from the sun breaks down collagen and elastin in the skin and leads to an increase in fine lines and wrinkles (2). 

A microneedling device contains rows of thin needles that penetrate the skin in uniform depth creating controlled micro-injuries. These punctures evoke the body’s healing processes, leading to fresh collagen and elastin. This is skin remodeling, a kind of biohacking of the body’s ability to heal itself.

Studies showing the efficacy of microneedling trend towards a series of treatments. For example, 4 sessions spaced 1 month apart showed a 400% increase in collagen and elastin at 6 months after the treatment (3)!  Based on the available literature, I always recommend a series of treatments for best outcomes. Lately, (after reviewing literature) I have been playing with a series of microneedling combined with 70% glycolic peels; alternating microneedling and peels, each spaced 3 weeks apart (4). Results are remarkable. 

The 70% glycolic peel is a ‘no downtime’ resurfacing treatment that supports the cellular turnover instigated by the microneedling. Glycolic acid is derived from beet sugar that works to address fine lines and wrinkles, even out skin tone, and is excellent for maintaining results from deeper peels and microneedling. 

Affordability is a factor. Based on the literature, a series of treatments is recommended for optimal outcomes. While at-home microneedling instruments are sold everywhere now, it is prudent to work with a thoroughly-tested medical device. I use the Skinpen which is the first FDA-cleared microneedling device that has been rigorously tested for safety and proven to give results. 

Adding microneedling to your skincare regimen helps even skin tone, soften fine lines, improve scarring, and improve texture. Strategies like adding glycolic peels and pre-and post skin prepping can enhance outcomes. Our skin turns over about every 50 days (5), and we can support this process with treatments to enhance the health of our skin. Stay tuned next week to learn the best skin care routine for fall and winter months. 

Resources

https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3400707/#:~:text=UV%2Dinduced%20oxidative%20stress%20increases,on%20melanocytes%20and%20induce%20hyperpigmentation.

https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/10709362/

https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK459344/

https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/22151943/

https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/7865480/